Saturday, August 27, 2022

Spider Gap - Buck Creek Loop (2022)

Almost a decade ago, Mike went on his first 50-mile backpacking trip with BSA troop 525.  The trip was so spectacular, that when he was invited to repeat this itinerary with friends Ted and Dave, he said "Absoutely!"  The Spider Gap / Buck Creek Loop in the Glacier Peak Wilderness has some of the most amazing scenery of Washington's Cascade Mountain range.  But, don't take his word for it, look at the photo gallery from the trip and decide for yourself.

It is agonizingly difficult to come up with a picture or two that can act as cover pictures for this blog, but Mike settled on showing the views from the campsites.  

Campsite on Larch Knob overseeing Spider Meadow and the Phelps Creek Basin

Sunrise on Glacier Peak from campsite at Buck Creek Pass


Report


Day 1 (8.4 miles / 2411 feet of ascent): Starting from the Phelps Creek Trailhead from the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, the trio began their hike with a sneak peak of the type of views they would enjoy during the trip.  After a couple of miles of gradual ascent they entered Glacier Peak Wilderness.  The next few miles would be a gentle amble through the forest, with several creek crossings, until arriving at the first gem of the trip:  Spider Meadow.  The U-shaped valley is evidence of the massive Spider Glacier that once carved this valley into the beauty that it is today.  After a casual lunch at the meadow, they picked their jaws off the ground and made the arduous ascent up to Larch Knob, where they camped with views of Spider Meadow from high above the valley floor.

Day 2 (7.1 miles / 1803 feet of ascent): To say that day 2 was the shortest mileage of the trip doesn't do justice to the difficulty of the terrain.  They first had to slog up Spider Glacier, avoiding a crevasse along the way.  At the top of Spider Gap, they were treated to views of Lyman Lakes Basin and Chiwawa Mountain.  Past Upper Lyman Lake, they had to ford Railroad Creek before descending along the Lyman Falls to Lower Lyman Lake.  Finding ripe, delicious mountain huckleberries in the lower part of the basin made for some slow going, as the temptation to stop often and pop a few in their mouths was just too great.  Eventually, however, they made it to the campsite at Cloudy Pass before sunset, but the bugs drove them into our tents fairly early in the evening.

Day 3 (11.0 miles / 4724 feet of ascent): A day of literal ups and downs, they had to climb up to Cloudy Pass with spectacular views of Spider Gap and the Lyman Lakes Basin to the south and their first glimpse of Glacier Peak, after which came Suiattle Pass and our overlap of the Pacific Crest Trail.  It was here where they met a through-hiker named Steve (trail name: Rocky).  His YouTube channel catalogs his hike from the Mexican border to the Canadian Border and also features a cameo of Dave, Ted, and Mike.  They passed several other through hikers on the long descent to Miner's Creek, which included a choose-your-own adventure route over an avalanche field of downed trees. After leaving the PCT, it was an arduous ascent to Middle Ridge.  One would have hoped that three passes were enough for one day, but no... they still had to drop down to Small Creek and finish at Buck Creek Pass, where they set up camp with a perfect view of Glacier Peak.

Day 4 (10.7 miles / 945 feet of ascent):  The sprint to the end of the trail was mostly downhill to the old mining town of Trinity, WA.  Of course, they didn't sprint, because there were still too many photo opportunities to pass by.  By the time they had reached Trinty, the temperature was in the 80s, made all too apparent by how exposed the trail was, especially the recent fire burn area where wildflowers were taking full advantage of the newfound sunlight.

Daily Itinerary

Distance (miles)


Elev. Gain
(ft)

Phelps Creek TR to Larch Knob8.42411
Larch Knob to Cloudy Pass7.11803
Cloudy Pass to Buck Creek Pass11.04724
Buck Creek Pass to Trinity10.7 945
TOTALS 37.29883

The wildflowers were amazing.  Our trip may have been past peak for some of the higher elevation meadows, but we saw a burst of color in the lower meadows, including all of the following:
  • Aster
  • Pearly Everlasting
  • Mountain Arnica
  • Magenta Paintbrush
  • Wenatchee Paintbrush
  • Giant Red Paintbrush
  • Howell's Pussytoes
  • Subalpline Lupen
  • Reb Willowherb
  • Moutain Bog Gentain
  • Fireweed
  • Bear Grass

Photos

Here is Mike's online photos.  A more complete album including Ted and Dave's pictures is here.  A playlist of GoPro videos are also available on YouTube.

GPS Info


Flythrough Maps


Dave produced the following 3D maps of each day from his Suunto watch:

Overview Map





Elevation Profile


If you would like to use this info with your GPS unit, the full GPX file is here.


Wednesday, August 10, 2022

Sucia Island

Ahead of their 27th wedding anniversary, Suzanne and Mike took a trip to Sucia Island State Park, a member of the San Juan Islands in the Strait of Georgia.  Because there is no state ferry service to Sucia Island, most visit the island by private boat.  Because they don't have a boat, Mike and Suzanne got to their campground with a bit more logistical preparation that required them to:

  1. Drive from their home to Anacortes, WA
  2. Board the ferry from Anacortes to Orcas Island
  3. Drive to Eastsound, WA on the north side of Orcas.
  4. Board a water taxi to Sucia Island
  5. Backpack their camping gear from Fossil Bay to North Echo Bay
  6. Hike back to Fossil Bay to prepare the kayak
  7. Paddle from Fossil Bay to Mud Bay
  8. Portage across the spit from Mud Bay to Snoring Bay
  9. Paddle from Snoring Bay to campsite at North Echo Bay via South Finger and Justice Islands
They left home at 5am and were finally set up at camp with their kayak on shore at 3:15pm.  

Sucia is a beautiful island chocked full of gravelly beaches, hidden coves, large bays, intricate rock formations, forested paths, bluffs with expansive vistas, tranquil sunsets, and thrilling wildlife.  They saw otters, seals, herons, gulls, cormorants, eagles (along with a ridiculously large nest,) bats, snakes, lizards, mice (keep your food very secure on Sucia!), and naturally, plenty of ants and mosquitoes.


Dusk on Fossil Bay with Mount Baker in the background

Activities


The focus of this itinerary was threefold:  kayaking, hiking, and relaxing.  Hiking would typically happen in the morning, with kayaking in the afternoon, and relaxing in the evenings, watching the sunset and enjoying the view from the campsite.  They collected the following details from their GPS:


Activity

Distance (miles)


Elev. Gain
(ft)

Backpacking    2.7 550
Hiking 16.2 2420
Kayaking  8.7 --
TOTALS  27.6 2970

Map

The following are the maps of hiking and paddling along with a GPX file with all of these hikes.  The maps and profiles are all produced by GPS Visualizer.  

Hiking


Kayaking


Profiles

Hiking Elevation

Kayaking Speed

Highlights

For a remote island accessible by boat only, the Washington State Parks service does a great job at maintaining the facilities.  The compost toilets were always clean, and the campsites well maintained.  The staff were occasionally spotted on their John Deere tractor, and they were all very friendly.  When they saw pedestrians on the trail, they would come to a complete stop until passed to keep dust off of visitors.

Favorites

  • Mike: Enjoying the expansive scenery of the Georgia Strait, with boats, otters, seals, and birds enjoying the waters during sunset.
  • Suzanne: Exploring the rocky coastline via kayak.

Lowlights

The biggest misfortune on the trip was Suzanne's fall that injured her right elbow.  Because she was no longer able to paddle, they had to limit their kayaking distance, since Mike had to do all of the paddling.  As a result, they weren't able to explore some of the areas they had hoped to.  

The mosquitos were annoying as well.  The bug spray did a reasonable job of keeping them from attacking, but both were bitten several times.  

Photos

There are 160 photos and a video of one kayak outing, which traversed Fossil Bay, Shallow Bay, and Fox Cove.  Click the links to view them all.

Chain Lakes Loop

On the first day of autumn, Mike was able to get in one final Saturday of good weather for a day hike to give him over 50 miles of hiking in...